First lesson for the unexperienced surfing blogger: When what you experience is inspiring and worth telling, it’s hard to make time to write. Or take pictures. Whereas, when you have lots of time and are bored (read: on a plane, in the airport lounges of Munich and Houston), you tend to be little inspired and would end up writing boring self-reflexions. (And you would thank me for not publishing those.)
Yesterday was my first full day in Nosara, and ever since the waves were too good and the water too warm not to hang in there for a daily total of almost six hours. I still don’t have a picture of myself surfing yet (a flaw that needs to be cured asap), but I can honestly say that I did catch a fair share of ca. 2m waves pretty quickly despite not having surfed in months. That’s not due to my extraordinary talent but rather due to the benign nature of the waves at today’s (high tide) morning session.
The sunset session, a matter of low tide, was quite different: steep and powerful waves, still easy to catch, but hard to make something out of with my longboard after the takeoff. The problem with steep waves is that beginners like me have trouble going sideways on the steeper faces. You drop and all of a sudden you are at the bottom of the wave with the board still pointing 90 degrees away from the wave. We’ll see how all of this changes in the 2 months time I have planned to stay here…
A less technical comment about the sunset session: It’s just an enchanting affair, sitting in the warm water, trying to read the waves against the sunlight and even when you have to paddle back out against the white water (i.e. the broken waves), your mood gets lifted by the stunning view of the lips of the incoming waves back-lit by the sun.